Have you thought about adding a second cat or even a kitten to the current household thinking your cat would love a friend to keep them company while you are at work, or just fallen for a kitten? Did you think you would just bring the new feline in the home, and have them work it out? Well unfortunately that does not always work out and the only thing it does is cause cat fights.  Some cats are perfectly happy to have a friend around while others need a reason to like this new cat.  The resident cat thinks that there is some strange new feline in the house possibly to replace them. While the new feline was brought into a foreign territory in a potential battle field as everything smells like the resident cat.  It can be a very scary time for them both.

Here are some great steps to ensure a calm peaceful household when introducing a new cat:

1. Prepare separate spaces. Before bringing home the new feline have a separate room all prepared for them. This includes having a scratching post, litter boxes, toys, and food dishes for the new feline. This room could be a spare bedroom or bathroom.

2. Introduce smell first. Cats making eye contact with each other first time can quickly escalate to a full on fight. This is why you want to introduce smell first. A good way for scent exchange is to either rub a towel all over each cat, and placing them into each of their areas or you can also do this with fresh socks.  If you like you can also take the socks/towels that have each cats scent, and spray feliway on them.  Don’t be alarmed if they hiss or growl. These are normal reactions.

3. Encourage good reaction through the door. Place the cats food closer and closer to the door, each time finding the challenge line and spending a day or two on that line. (The challenge line is the closest either cat will be without hissing or being scared and running away). Give your cat treats at the door, play with them near the door. Basically the goal is to associate the other felines scent with good things.

4. Let the new kitty roam! Place your resident cat in a closed room and let the new feline explore their surroundings at a good pace. Let the new feline stretch their legs, then place them back into their safe haven. All without having them meet the resident cat. Then release the kracken, we mean resident cat. The cat will smell the new feline and will start to get used to the others scent.

5. Open the door just a crack. After a few days you can slowly open the door, just a crack for them to see each other. But not enough to stick their heads through.  Do this during feeding time.  Offer a small amount of food open the door then close the door after a minute or they are done eating. Do this one or two times a day. It’s better to do short sessions that turn out good then one long session that turns out bad. If one cat is a fast eater invest in slow feeders to draw it out longer.

6. Open the door fully. Don’t rush this step or else you will have to go back to the closed door peekaboo sessions. You may want to invest in a baby gate at this point. Basically have the door open with the baby gate and feed them in short sessions each day. If the cats aren’t hissing and seem more curious then anything that’s a great sign!

7. Let them be together in supervised times only. This may or may not be a slight gong show. But whenever your cat doesn’t hiss at the other feline, praise them and give them a treat. If a fight breaks out or one is very scared,  go back a step.  You want this to be a good experience for them. Hissing is fine but watch for the following body language to see when a fight might break out:

• Ears go flat
• Fur fluffs up
• Batting of paws
• Spitting
• Yowling

This is when you want to interrupt it. Try distracting with toys, treats, hand claps or placing anything between them. What you want to do is make them lose eye contact.

Helpful tips for cat introductions:

• Go the resident cats pace, not your own. This introduction may take days, weeks or even a month or two. They may also never be friends but if they can learn to coexist then all is good.
• Don’t have them out not supervised until you know they can be trusted. While you’re at work or out it’s best to keep them separated.
• Ensure you have enough resources. This means a few scratching posts, even cat trees, and that they don’t share the same feeding bowl. Also for litter boxes a rule of thumb is to have one litter box per cat plus one extra. You also want them to be in areas where escape routes are easy to be find and in separate locations. So this means not in a tiny closest, or all downstairs. If a cat gets spooked while in the litter box they may develop a litter box aversion. As well if one cat can guard the area by just being positioned right it’ll prevent another cat from being able to use it.

Some cats may never be besties but as long as they have enough resources you can prevent an all out war.  Adding a new feline to the house can be a very wonderful thing but take the time needed to properly introduce them.  We assure you, you won’t regret it and you may just have two cats who love each other in the end.

credit: Madd Dogg Photography

By: Shasanna Browne

How much would you pay to save the life of your best friend?

That is a question that many pet owners eventually face. The advancement of modern technology has allowed us to make significant gains in the field of animal healthcare, resulting in an improved ability to identify and address the medical problems afflicting our furry companions. Unfortunately, these gains are associated with rising equipment, medication, and facility costs for veterinary clinics and the pet owners who frequent them. Anyone who has taken their pet to a veterinarian for even a small incident knows that the bills add up quickly.

So many of us have animals that have been integrated into the family, becoming focal points of their owners’ lives. These pet owners are often willing to dedicate significant financial resources to treating their ailing pets. When faced with the possibility of expensive veterinary bills, owners may be forced to choose between their own economic security and the lives of their companions.

Acquiring pet insurance can help animal owners provide necessary medical care to their furry family members without being crippled by veterinary costs. This article will cover some of the important things to consider when assessing the pros and cons of pet insurance in order to help you make a fully formed decision. Of course, I would encourage you to undertake formal research on your own to find the best fit for your family.

1) How old is my pet?
The importance of this question is multifactorial. The age of your pet can influence the cost of pet insurance premiums; as a general rule, the older a pet is, the more an insurance company foresees having to pay out in order to maintain the animal’s health. Registering your pet for health insurance later in his or her life can also mean that there will be a number of pre-existing conditions that may not be covered by your insurance plan. For these reasons, it’s important to purchase pet insurance as soon as possible and ensure that you are fully aware of any pre-insurance health conditions that you may have to pay for out-of-pocket later.

2) What breed is my pet?
As is the case with car insurance, the pet insurance company you are considering has identified specific breeds that they deem to be “high risk”. This may be based upon general statistics regarding certain breeds’ behaviors, or upon the likelihood that specific breeds will fall victim to expensive diagnoses more often than others (i.e., hip displaysia). You may discover that certain conditions which are likely to arise in your pet’s life will not be covered by your plan, and/or that you will be penalized by higher premiums. Some insurance companies may deny insurance altogether for high-risk breeds.

3) What is covered under the plan?
Make sure that you carefully examine the coverage details and plan commitments for each pet insurance company you are looking at. Many plans only offer coverage up to a certain dollar amount per accident or illness, or have a cap on the amount you can claim within your pet’s lifetime. It’s essential to gauge whether you are willing to sacrifice having access to sufficient coverage when you need it for a cheaper premium. Ensure that you are aware of the percentage that your prospective plan will cover for each claim, as well; even if it covers 80%, that 20% that you have to pay on your own is very significant on a $10,000.00 vet bill. Pay close attention to the dental coverage details, as well; there are typically many stipulations associated with pet dental insurance.

4) What is the premium structure based on?
As mentioned earlier, your pet’s age and breed can impact the amount you pay for pet insurance. You may pay more in premiums because the cost of veterinary care is higher where you live. Some pet insurance companies may also increase your premiums when you make a claim, so make sure you carefully examine what impacts your insurer’s premium increases. It is common for pet insurance companies to raise your premium periodically (i.e., annually) based on veterinary expense inflation. You will also want to research the deductible assigned to each plan and consider whether you will have trouble paying that deductible if and when you take your pet to the veterinarian.

5) You may never actually use your pet insurance.
Pet insurance plans don’t generally cover “routine” or preventative veterinary costs such as annual examinations and vaccinations. When a condition arises, the preliminary examination to determine the diagnosis and appropriate course of treatment often will not fall under the scope of your insurance coverage. It’s entirely possible that your animal could go the entire course of his or her life without any large-scale accidents or illnesses. You will need to weigh whether having peace of mind for the duration of your pet’s life overshadows the possibility that you may invest thousands of dollars into a service that you never need to use. If this thought is deterring you from purchasing pet insurance, consider obtaining a pet insurance quote anyway and squirreling that money away in a “pet fund”.

I have pet insurance for my two little dogs, and I am very happy with my provider. When one of my pets required $10,000.00 in treatment for a pancreatitis attack two years ago, 90% of my bill was covered and I was able to provide him with the best care possible. He survived, and has been perfectly healthy ever since! On the other hand, I have hardly used the pet insurance for my other dog. Despite this, it’s a relief to know that access to medical care won’t be an issue should something arise in the future.

Zoe’s Animal Rescue has partnered with Petsecure and we do offer six weeks of free coverage when you adopt one of our animals. After the six weeks has elapsed, you can decide whether you would like to take on the premiums and continue with Petsecure’s insurance plan.

If you’re uncertain where to begin, most pet insurance companies offer free quotes online or via telephone. You can also find websites which provide at-a-glance cross-comparisons of different insurance plans. You can gain invaluable insight from the pet owners in your life; they will be able to provide you with personal accounts of terrifying vet bills, and share pet insurance customer service stories to factor into your decision.

Responsible pet ownership goes beyond meeting your animal’s basic needs for food, water and shelter. Pet insurance can equip you with the funds and resources to provide your pet with the medical care they need, when they need it.

We see it all the time, a dog or cat gets lost and the owners are beside themselves. What can they do to get their pet back? Or maybe you found a very sweet dog who is very friendly making you think they have an owner out there.  Well there are many things you can do!

What do you do if your pet is lost?

• A good place to start is by making a lost poster with a recent photo and contact info and posting them every where you can. Talk to people and get the word out.
• Contact local shelters to see if your animal was surrendered within 60 miles. Animals can travel far or get picked up by kind citizens to be brought to the pound. File a missing report asap.
• Post on lost and found sites such as kijiji, facebook pages for lost and found pets, pet lynx, buy and sell sites. Basically just get the word out asap. We have a list of lost pet resources.
• Take out a lost ad in the newspaper.
• If offering a reward be cautious for when people call. Unfortunately far too many people are happy to take advantage of your situation to make money. Ask for them to give a really good description of your animal. If at any time they say “wire me or send me the money right now or you will never see your pet alive” it’s a scam. People will say whatever they can to take your money but they don’t have your pet.
• Some pet insurance will cover advertising for a lost pet, contact your pet insurance to see if this is the case for you.
• If you lost your dog while on a walk (he got scared or chased something and got away) leave clothing near the location. Dogs have a great sense of smell and will be comforted by your scent. They will be drawn to it so keep checking back to see if they are there. If it rains replace the clothes with some new ones.
• If it’s a situation where the animal is very scared you may want to rent a humane trap to see if you could possibly trap them.

What do you do if you find a lost pet?

• Quickly asses the animal. Are they injured in any way? How is their health? Do they seem to be in good shape? Though health can be very misleading, a well taken care of animal can quickly deteriorate in just a month. But if they are very friendly and love the company of people. It is safe to say they might be owned and someone is really missing them.
• The best thing you could do is bring them to the local pound in the area you found the animal in. Most animals don’t stray too far from home. There could be a frantic owner calling to see if their pet is in their care. If you are not feeling comfortable with surrendering them some shelters do allow you to foster that animal while filling out a found post. But if you really can’t take them to the shelter try these tips.
• If there are no collars or visible tattoos bring them to the vet to get checked for a microchip.
• Post on kijiji, lost and found websites/facebook pages, and pet lynx.
• You can even make a flyer of the animal to be posted everywhere you can.
• Be diligent, people might try to say that this animal is theirs when it’s not. Ask them to give key details about the animal. (markings, name, commands). Basically anything to prove that this animal is really theirs and ask open ended questions. For example, don’t ask if their dog has a kink in its tail if it really does, most people will say yes. Instead ask if they can describe the dogs tail, or if it has something unique about it.

Keep your pets safe by keeping them indoors. Don’t let them roam. A good way to prevent the urge to roaming is by getting them fixed. They will have less of an urge to roam the neighborhood.

But we know some animals are great escape artists or get freaked out by storms. Have a breakaway collar on them with up to date tags. Also the safest way to ensure you will get your pet back is by having them microchipped. There are even tag trackers that you can get to pinpoint their exact location.

If at any point your pet becomes lost try to stay calm and do everything you can to bring them back home. If you find a lost animal, never assume that they are strays but are instead loved by someone who is missing them dearly. Do all you can to ensure that if they have a loving home out there desperately searching for them, that you help them reunite.

We see it all the time. People wanting a 6 week old puppy or kitten, or stores selling them at this age. Many think the younger the better, this way they can truly bond with them and have them grow up the way they want them to. But did you know by adopting such a young puppy or kitten you could actually be setting them up to have behavioral issues as they get older?  We know a cute tiny puppy or kitten is hard to resist but in the end you might be very grateful for waiting.

Puppies are very cute and everyone is drawn to that one cute tiny puppy. But a puppy should not be going to its new forever home until at least 8 weeks of age, 12 weeks is preferable. Here are some reasons why:

• Puppies learn from their litter mates and mom socialization skills. Yes it is up to you to socialize your puppy frequently but a puppy first learns from its litter mates very crucial skills. Things like a dogs body language, and knowing when enough is enough. They could have dog issues later in life.
• They also build up a stronger immunity system. Puppies do continue to nurse until 7 or 8 weeks of age when mom finally says enough. She will help them build a strong immunity. As well this is when they get their first shots and dewormed.
• During the initial period of weaning, the puppies learn how to deal with their anxiety. This process isn’t easy on them but they will be able to overcome it and as such have a stronger immunity to severe anxiety.
• At this point you can start to judge more their personality. Usually 12 weeks its already forming strongly. So your shy, quiet pup who liked to cuddle as a 6 week old could now be an overactive hyper 12 week old puppy which you didn’t want.
• From 4 weeks to 12 weeks old is a crucial period in a young puppies life. This is the time they truly learn everything and this is the time mom starts teaching them everything.
• By taking them from their littermates so early they has less of a coping method and can quickly become very anxious and have a lot of anxiety.

Kittens are so adorable at this stage. So tiny and cute, they can fit in the palm of your hand. But keeping them with mommy and their litter mates until they are at least 8 weeks old can mean that you will get a cat later on who is more confident and less scared.

• Kittens learn from mom how to use the litter box, they also learn from their littermates. They start using it like a pro as they get older. Taking them to early could cause litter box accidents.
• Kittens do continue to nurse until 8 weeks old. It builds their immunity to diseases and infections. It is also the time they get their first sets of shots and dewormed.
• Litter mates love to play, and its during this time they learn how to play properly and gently. They also learn body language as well.
• Like puppies, it’s a time of weaning for kittens so they learn to handle with stress effectively.
• Let’s face it at 6 weeks old kitten are tiny, very tiny. As such you will have to be extra cautious in handling. Bones can be easily broken by hugging to tightly. If you have young kids waiting until a kitten is older would be a great idea as young kids don’t understand not to hug too tightly and accidently hurt them.
• Kittens taken too early don’t have the best ability to adjust to new situations. They become fearful and hide frequently even as adults.

Vets all agree it’s important for puppies and kittens to stay with mom until at least 8 weeks old. In most states in the US it is illegal to adopt or sell any animals under 8 weeks of age. And in Canada they might be following suit. Good breeders would never ever sell a puppy under 8 weeks of age nor any good rescues. Sadly some feel if they are eating solids then they are ready to go which is not the case. They may be ready physically but mentally they are far too young to cope with the trauma of a whole new life without momma and litter mates. Before you decide to adopt such a young kitten or puppy think if it’s the right thing to do for that puppy or kitten. Waiting a few more weeks to give them the best chance in life will be truly be worth it in the end.

And, if you really can’t live without the cuteness a young animal brings, think about fostering a litter.

By Dana Bjornerud, CBCC-KA, DBTMC
Motivation K9

I was asked by the lovely ladies of Zoe’s to put together a blog post about the positive training methods I use and promote. I jumped at the opportunity, mostly because I believe this is something rescues should care strongly about. Rescue isn’t just about getting the animal to appear good enough for adoption, but to actually effectively change behaviour issues while keeping the animal feeling as safe as possible.

I guess I should start with the easy stuff, then go to the science behind it.

So. When I work with a dog, whether it be my own, a client’s, or a rescue, I want it to be as fun as possible. If I’m having fun, I’m communicating it to the dog so the dog then relaxes, and with that relaxation comes more effective training. Not to mention, training is an ongoing thing. This is something a dog owner should spend significant time on – why spend that time waiting for your dog to screw up so you can yell? Why not help him get it right so you can cheer?

I find many trainers that are “balanced” or use aversive training as a first line of defense seem, well, grumpy when they’re training. I get to laugh, smile, cheer, play with and praise my dog. And that leads to an amazing training session and an amazing bond. So on the surface, that is one reason why I choose the training methods I do.

On the next level, there’s some psychology at play. The whole idea of you get what you give. If I am super positive and happy and reward what I want from my dogs, it feeds into an overall happier and positive me. It helps the human get into a pattern of constructive thoughts. Comparatively, if your training requires you to correct a bad behaviour, you are waiting for your dog to make a mistake. How do you fight a negative thought pattern when you are literally watching and waiting for bad things? Why set your dog up for failure that you have to punish, when you can set him up for success, which you can celebrate with him? How does that negative thought pattern effect how you view your dog?

Now for the scientific reasoning for positive training. The last 30-40 years of scientific research has shown us that the foundations of the alpha, dominance, punishment training are flawed, and the methodology that sprouted from them is risky. Training a dog with aversives and essentially aggression, is likely to create aggression. Whereas keeping the dog feeling safe and using science based learning theory allows us to change how the dog thinks, with very little risk of creating aggression.

Not to mention, my dogs are companions and friends. I have them in my home to have fun, snuggle, and do things with like hike and play games. I do not have dogs so I can have a robotic slave that bends to my every whim. When we strive to have the “perfect” dog that never does anything wrong, we take away the fact that they are living, breathing, thinking beings. This is not to say anything a dog does when left to its own devices is acceptable – but that does come back to the human not training the dog what is more acceptable in that situation.

I have found that most behaviour issues in dogs are born from one very basic thing – humans do not fully understand dogs. We don’t understand their language yet expect them to speak ours. We don’t understand the very basic principles of what it means to be a dog, so we expect them to behave like tiny humans. And we don’t give them the time and dedication they need to be successful, yet we expect perfection.

If humans could properly interpret what their dogs are saying, learn (and apply!) what science has shown us about them, and spend the time they need to be properly trained, we’d have happier owners, happier dogs, and I’d be out of a job!

So in essence the training I use boils down to a simple phrase – Least Invasive, Minimally Aversive. I train dogs without constantly needing to invade their space, and I do it with the least amount of aversion to solve the problem. You do not need to hurt or intimidate a dog to train it. It is better for the bond between you and your dog, it is less likely to cause behaviour issues later on, and it’s overall less stressful for you and your four-legged friend. I use science-based methods to change behaviour effectively. Set the dog up for success, and reward the right choice like crazy!

Many great rescues fall into the trap of quick results that aversive training can bring. Zoe’s has added a dedication to humane training to the enormous list of amazing things they do. Partnerships with local positive trainers such as myself is a fantastic step. Together we can educate and help many more animals than alone. I hope more rescues can follow the example Zoe’s is setting with their stance on not just rescuing, but long term success with responsible dog ownership!

By: Tawnya Summers, Cat Owner with Allergies, BA (Hon.)

For those of us who love our cats more than anything in the world, allergies can be an incredibly painful thing to go through. I don’t just mean physically; realizing that you are allergic to your cat is emotionally and mentally painful as well! Our animals are part of our family, they are our furry children, and we want to do whatever we can (often against our doctor’s wishes) to keep them with us!

If you suspect you may be allergic to your cat, the first thing to do is of course, talk to your doctor. We would NEVER recommend putting your health last – if your allergies are so severe that simply being at home with your cat causes your lungs to fill with fluid, it may be time to take the unfortunate road to re-homing.

If you’re like me, and your allergies range from mild to uncomfortably moderate, here are some things you can do to make life easier for you, while keeping your babies around:

•  What’s in an Allergy? Do your research first – are you actually allergic to the cat? Sometimes, especially if you allow your cat outdoors (don’t!), your cat may be carrying things in its fur that are causing your allergic reaction. Dust mites, pollen, grass, or oils can get trapped in your cat’s fur. The contents from the litter can linger on her feet and legs. It might be worth doing little bit of scouting and making some changes within the home, before you consider that she’s fully to blame.

• Medicate. Antihistamines are available over the counter for you to enjoy! You can also get them by prescription (I have an equivalent to Reactine).Be sure to read the labels and talk to a health professional if you have any questions. Common antihistamines you can buy over the counter are Benadryl, Claritin, Reactine, or Allegra. Newer over-the-counter antihistamines like Allerga have less side effects, whereas older tablets like Benadryl can cause drowsiness. Other forms of anti-allergen medications you can buy are nasal sprays, eye drops, and allergy injections or immunotherapy.

• Be Prepared. I have an inhaler prescribed by my doctor and carry it, as well as my antihistamines, with me at all times. If I am simply sitting at home with my cats, I won’t exhibit any symptoms of my allergies. After a heavy brushing session, I may need to use my inhaler to open my inflamed airways and take a Reactine to clear up my watery, itchy eyes. You can prepare for things like brushing ahead of time – take your cat to the groomers, or have your brother come over to do it!

• Know your Triggers. The common belief is that people are only allergic to DANDER. But what is dander? Cat dander is made up of skin cells, saliva, proteins from the body, dandruff, and even oils from the skin. If my cat’s skin touches my skin, it may become red and irritated. When she licks me, I sometimes develop an itchy bump, similar to a mosquito bite. I am more allergic to short-haired cats, where the dandruff and skin cells are easily accessible to my skin. Knowledge as simple as that helps me prevent symptoms; I could adopt only long-haired cats, and wash my hands immediately after petting my cat.

• Cleanliness is next to Catliness. Good hand hygiene will save your sanity! Always be cognizant of where your hands are. If you’ve been playing with kitty or petting her, don’t touch your face. Head straight to the sink and wash your hands! Keep your bedding clean by washing weekly. Change your pillow cases frequently if kitty sleeps with you. Keep her litter away from common areas, and keep the litter room clean. Litter often carries dust or other allergens. You can even try corn, wheat, or newspaper based litter.

• HEPA Filters. The cleaner your air, the easier it’ll be for you to breathe. I have an air purifier next to my bed, because I shamefully allow my cats to sleep in my room. Small and powerful filters aren’t expensive, and can be placed in the living room, bedroom, or the cat room! 

• Quality Furniture. Don’t choose upholstered sofas! Upholstery traps dander and fur, as well as dust and other allergens. Leather furniture isn’t always first choice, as cats may leave claw marks, but cat hair glides right off and onto the floor. Kitchen chairs should not have padding to prevent your kitty from hanging out there. You can also invest in some pretty cool allergen-reducing furniture. I have a friend who has an anti-spill, anti-scratch, anti-fur couch. I wish I could remember the name of it for you, but you’ll find it! To keep cat hair limited to one place, you could even have a designated armchair just for her! If it’s the only comfy place around, you can be sure she’ll choose it. 

• Floors and Furnishings. There are a few more things you can do to reduce allergens and cat hair, and make your life more comfortable around the house. Get rid of the carpets! If this isn’t an option, vacuum weekly with a specialty vacuum made for spall-particles or pet hair. Shampoo your carpet frequently. Cover your vents with cheese cloth or similar to prevent the fur from blowing all over the house. Get rid of the horizontal blinds, where cat hair can settle. Clean your curtains and shades frequently. Choose furniture that is easy to clean, and dust often. You can even skip the carpeted cat trees by installing a series of shelves for your cats to climb on (see: Catification).

• Keep Kitty Healthy! As I mentioned above, dander is a mix of everything from cat fur to cat oils. The better your cat eats, the better her skin and fur will be. It’s sort of like how more Vitamin E can make your hair healthier. Healthier cats are less likely to shed dander, and you can use a range of products, such as peanut oil, to keep dandruff at bay. The better she’s eating, the better she will feel – and it will show! Brush her regularly (or have someone else do it) with an undercoat catching comb to keep fur from flying. I don’t personally recommend shaving your cat, though some allergy suffers will swear by it. Because my triggers are skin flakes and saliva, I found shaving my long haired cat exposed me to more allergens than if I had left her long.

• Cat-Free Territory. You should always have a room that can stay relatively cat-free. When I lived with my brother, it amazed me how much better I could breathe when I opened his door to grab something. It might be your office, spare bedroom, heck, it might even be your bathroom! This room should be afforded the same amount of care as the rest of your house – no upholstered furniture, carpet, cleanliness… allergies often come in groups. If you’re allergic to cats, chances are you’re allergic to dust mites or other allergens in the home. Many doctors will recommend you keep YOUR bedroom cat-free. I strongly suggest this, though I don’t follow it. If you are getting a new cat, start right from the beginning at making your room the place you can sleep best – without cat dander and without cats waking you up at night!  

First things first! Always check with a vet before correction for behavioural problems. Cats can’t “tell” you when something is wrong, so they must try to show you. Watch for blood in their urine or feces, and watch how difficult it is for them to urinate or defecate. Urinary crystals are common among indoor, male cats, but females can get them too. Crystals will be painful and cause urinary blockage, and if left untreated, can be fatal. Other medical issues relating to litter box problems could be anxiety, PH balance, (often treated with urinary food,) or as serious as kidney failure. There are many supplements to add to your cats food, such as more fluids from tinned (wet) food, or cranberries!

Once cleared by a vet, it’s time to start thinking about what your cat is trying to tell you. This requires a bit of investigation, or as Pam Johnson-Bennett says, “think like a cat!” Here’s some common things to consider:

Location, location, location!

While some cats are solitary beings, and prefer to do their business in peace, others enjoy the prospect of a social ritual around the litter box. Where is their box located? Is it in a high-traffic area, where they me startled or find the lack of peace distracting? Is it downstairs, far away from any communal area where they may hang out? It’s a good idea to try different places for the litter box, even using multiple boxes as you determine where your cat likes to do his business. In a multi-level house, you may want to consider a box on each floor, or at least keeping it on the middle floor. How would you like it if you woke up in the middle of the night on the third floor, and the toilet was all the way downstairs? And never place the litter box near your cat’s food and water. We don’t eat in the bathroom, why should they?

Doing your business in style!

Sometimes your cat just isn’t happy with his box. We like to be comfy while we.. er, do our thing, and so does he! Is the box too small? Too large? Perhaps it’s hooded and he would prefer the open air between his cheeks! A liner or lid may make it uncomfortable. The rim might be too high for him to climb into, or the self-cleaning mechanism might freak him right out. Perhaps a different box will make all the difference. And keep it clean! Litter boxes should be cleaned daily, not only to prevent discomfort or smell, but also to reduce risk of certain diseases like coronavirus spreading. If you live in a small space, such as an apartment, you can “catify” your open litter box by making an entrance in a large Rubbermaid container, or in a storage ottoman! This allows the cat to have his box without a low ceiling, but doesn’t leave your guests eyeing up the litter all day. You could even have two entrances for even more freedom.

Multiple cats, multiple boxes!

Every cat should have his own litter box. Urine is a “marker” for many animals in the wild, and your cat may prefer to use his own box, with his own smell. The multiple boxes can be placed in the same location next to each other, but sometimes having that option of ownership makes his territorial issues a little more bearable. You may also notice that cats have a tendency to urinate in one box, and defecate in the second. It’s a weird thing science can’t explain, but sometimes even with a single cat a second box is an easy fix.

Sand between my toes!

Cats can be picky – you may have noticed this with food and treats, but litter can also be a choice! Clay based litters are hard, and can hurt delicate paws and declawed cats. Some of the other options you have are: plant-based (such as World’s Best Cat Litter and Swheat Scoop), newspaper based (such as Yesterday’s News), or weird plastic things called Litter Pearls. Some cats are turned off by clumping litter, while others are grossed out by non-clumping. Scents can also cause aversion to litter boxes. If you want to deodorize, use a deodorizing litter or plain old baking soda. Finally, if your cat came from the outdoors, they may be confused by litter and need a little encouragement, such as sprinkling grass clippings on top of the litter in the beginning. And remember, one to two inches is all they need. If your cat feels like he’s sinking in quicksand, he’s not going to want to stay in there long!

In this corner, your cat!

Cats are territorial. We all know it, we all neuter and spay to prevent it! In multi-animal households, cats need to feel like they have a “safe” place. Whether it’s from another cat, a dog, or a child, your cat is like a teenager – he needs his own room! Sometimes cats will pee on new things to show their displeasure, or to mark it as their own. This could be a new couch, the new guy’s cat bed, or a new baby’s crib. This sort of behaviour is harder to correct. Does your cat have his own “safe” place? His own bed, or his own cat tree? You can try placing his things on the new items, for example, placing his blanket on the new couch, or his cat bed in the baby’s room. Purchasing new items just for him may also make a difference, rub his scent all over that new cat tree and show him it’s all his. If reasonable, make it easy for him to get away from the new guys – whether it is up on top of the fridge, or installing some IKEA shelves for him to climb up and away from grabby hands. Talk to your vet about other ways to correct marking.

Here’s some tips for dealing with the aftermath:

No matter what the issue, cat pee stinks! It is comprised of ammonia, and can be very difficult to wash out of furniture, carpets, and your clothes. Use a urine-remover such as Nature’s Miracle to remove those pee enzymes from the carpet, and give it a good scrub with vinegar and water. Don’t use soap or cleaner until you’re sure that urine is completely gone! Cats have way more sensitive noses than we do, and a simple run through the washing machine may rid the smell from your nose, but he will sniff it out!

As with the litter box, cats like to urinate in the same place, for comfort, territory, and habit. If the ammonia isn’t completely wiped from the material, your cat will return there thinking, “hey! I peed here once!” and do it all over again. You can try putting a litter box where he has urinated before, giving him the option of continuing to use his favorite area. On the other hand, you can make his favorite spots less appealing by putting motion activated deterrents like lights or air-puffers. You can also create deterrents on the floor, such as turning a piece of carpet upside down or taping down a sticky substance like fly paper or double sided tape.

Note: Never punish your cat for urinating. He is trying to tell you something is wrong, whether he is upset or ill, it is important to correct the behaviour instead of instilling fear. Causing your cat to be afraid of urinating will only cause more problems for you both! Never lock him in a room or kennel, never rub his nose in his urine or feces, and never scold him or hit him for urinating. Do NOT spray your cat with a water bottle. Cats don’t respond to discipline the same way dogs or humans do. Keep doors closed if he is urinating in recurring rooms (like your bedroom), and always remember that your vet knows more than your friend, Google, or me!